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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.